Saturday, February 19, 2011
Mr. Tisci and the Boys of New York
Somehow, the Proenza Schouler show this season in New York kept reminding me of Riccardo Tisci's Givenchy spring-summer 2010. Mr. Tisci’s silhouette seems to have trickled down as the seasons went by— the fitted blazer (with peplum) and harem trousers.
Proenza Scoulder, the uber-cool New York duo, along with Alexander Wang, seem to be doing well feeding the likes of downtown-meets-west-village girls. Their clothes are always cool, but sophisticated at the same time.
The P.S. show I recently saw (via live-stream) gave me an immediate, visceral feeling of tribal, voodoo-practicing society. With the first few models' jet-black hair in Native-American-inspired, disheveled pony-tails and the presence of tribal prints, the collection could easily have been "old-world." However, the boys had successfully pulled the collection together and put a novel, modern touch to it.
Mr. Hernandez and Mr. Mccollough of P.S. are no followers. While Mr. Tisci, a few seasons ago, displayed a severe, "tough" collection of sharp jackets and geometric lines, the New York boys have put a more relaxed attitude to their clothes, but with the same control and innovation in fabrics— this time around, digitically designed, Native-American inspired prints. Even the geometric patterns and lines echo a tribal vibe in Tisci's collection: abstacted tribal motif with the likes of the Modernist: Picasso. The boys in New York, however, gave us innovative textures and colors that call to mind Western landscapes, which Mr. Tisci was probably foreign to.
Proenza Schouler Fall-winter 2011
Givenchy Spring-summer 2010